Ask anyone what food is synonymous with Japan, and most people will likely have the same answer: sushi. The dish as it’s popularly known dates back to Japan’s Edo period. It’s since gained a worldwide following, particularly in the form of maki (roll) sushi.
But there’s a less glamorous side to the world of sushi. The world of professional sushi chefs is dominated almost exclusively by men. Even many customers will refuse to eat sushi if it comes from a woman’s hand.
One store in Japan, however, has been bucking that prejudice for nearly 10 years.
The Prejudice Against Female Sushi Chefs
Why are there so few female sushi chefs? Mag2News did a round-up of interviews that various Western media outlets did with male sushi chefs in Japan. Women, the chefs said, aren’t “fit” for the work because they have periods, which “muddles” their sense of taste. Another popular prejudice has it that women’s hands are hotter than men’s, which affects the flavor of the finished product.
Other female sushi chefs who work abroad told reporters that male sushi chefs prefer to “pass on the samurai spirit” or “preserve tradition.” These arguments all share one thing in common: not a single one is grounded in proof. But they’ve persisted for centuries, with the result being that the sushi world remains stuck far in the past.
To be fair, Japan isn’t the only country that suffers from this issue. Only 18.5% of the UK’s professional chefs, for example, are women. That number is even worse in the United States, where women constitute a mere 7% of pros. But that doesn’t make the problem in the sushi world any less significant. While I couldn’t find any hard numbers on the number of female sushi chefs, LiveDoor notes that only a single restaurant where a female sushi chef works – Senyou, in Osaka – has ever received a Michelin Star.
“You’re Fat, Get Another Girl”
Amidst this wall of prejudice, one restaurant stands out: Nadeshiko Sushi. Tucked away in a back alley on the second floor of a building in Akihabara, Tokyo’s anime and manga mecca, Nadeshiko has featured exclusively female sushi chefs for nine years running.
Besides being fully women-staffed, Nadeshiko has a few other interesting traits. The store specializes in “authentic Tokyo-style sushi” (江戸前寿司; edomaezushi), or nigiri (sushi formed by gripping) done in the original Edo era style. The manager, Chizui Yuki (千津井由貴) , also decided to have staff forego the white frocks that are traditional of sushi chefs. “Most are made with men in mind,” she told junior reporters for Buzzfeed JP. “I originally did Japanese dance, so since we’re serving Japanese food, I thought I’d wear a kimono.”
But it hasn’t been all smooth sailing. Chizui told Huffington Post JP recently about how the prejudice against female sushi chefs has spilled over into the way that customers treat the staff:
「社長さんと思（おぼ）しき人が部下を引き連れてやってきた時、部下の一人が『社長、私がまず毒味します』って。ほかの店員も、別の男性客から『君は太っているから他の女の子にチェンジして』と言われたことがあります。こうしたことはたくさんありました」
When an acquaintance of the CEO brought his subordinates once, one of them said, “Sir, let me test that for poison.” Another staff member had a customer tell her, “You’re fat, switch out with another girl.” This kind of thing’s happened a lot.
Chizui says she’s seen this disdainful attitude from other sushi chefs as well. She recounts one chef who brought along an escort and told her, “I won’t eat that, you eat it.”
Customers, Chizui says, have also told her that her make-up will fall into the food and contaminate it. “Powder from makeup in this day and age doesn’t fall off,” she scoffs. Chizui also bundles up and sprays her hair back instead of cutting it short; some sushi restaurants will only let women work if they get a crew-cut.
The Evolution of a Gimmick
As HuffPo JP and Chizui tell it, Nadeshiko began as more of a marketing ploy. The staff wore maid outfits and made food according to a set menu. But after the store began to garner international media attention, Chizui handed a proposal to the owner: Make Nadeshiko a place where female sushi chefs can produce quality cuisine. Chizui led the charge, overcoming prejudice from vendors at the Toyosu fish market to establishing lasting relationships with suppliers.
The change was rough at first. Some customers responded poorly, and even derided Chizui as “impudent.” But Chizui pushed forward to craft her own vision of how a sushi restaurant can function. She and the owners have created an atmosphere that’s open and welcoming. There’s even a space for kids to play – a rare sight for usually stuffy and staid sushi establishments:
考えてみれば、女性が料理をするのは珍しいことではないし、私にとってはむしろ自然。鉄鋼職人のような寿司屋さん、多いじゃないですか。『話しかけるな』みたいな。そんな雰囲気よりも楽しく気楽に、敷居も低くしてくれてるのがありがたい
If you think about it, it’s not a rare thing for women to cook. For me, it’s natural. There are a lot of sushi shops operating like the Iron Chef, with a “don’t talk to me” atmosphere. I’m grateful to be in a place that’s lighter and more enjoyable, and where the threshold isn’t so high.
Chizui tries to bring that attitude towards her sushi as well. She uses her background studying as a cake designer to guide her in creating a beautiful design out of simple ingredients.
Nadeshiko is, obviously, just a single store. But its continued success is a heartwarming story of perseverance in the face of prejudice. And Chizui Yuki serves as a powerful symbol for young Japanese girls who may one day – thanks to her example – break some barriers themselves.
