Japanese sanma is a popular autumn staple of Japan. From July to December, sanma dishes grace the tables of nearly every kitchen in Japan. However, with steep price increases, many households are considering foregoing tradition this year.
Japanese sanma is a type of fish (Pacific saury in English). A seasonal autumn staple, the Japanese name itself consists of the kanji characters, 秋刀魚 (literally, “autumn swordfish”). Sanma usually migrate to Japan from late summer through autumn for mating season. However over the past few years, the fish are staying further and further away from the shores. Less fish mean meager hauls, and meager halls mean prices skyrocket.
Japanese Sanma Prices Soar
Wholesale prices for Japanese sanma reached a record-breaking 41,040 yen per kilogram. One fish reportedly auctioned for a price of 5,980 yen (about $55) in Hokkaido. Click To TweetThe 2019 haul of Japanese sanma was the lowest on record in history. As if continuing the trend, 2020 numbers have dropped even lower. This affects not only the fishing market, but popular restaurants, regular supermarkets, and Japanese family households. (And it certainly doesn’t help Japan’s already-struggling sushi places!)
Wholesale prices for Japanese sanma reached a record-breaking 41,040 yen per kilogram. One fish reportedly auctioned for a price of 5,980 yen (about $55) in Hokkaido. In the supermarkets, Japanese sanma normally sell for around 100 yen ($0.94) apiece. But since this past summer, families are lucky if they can find anything under 300 yen per piece – nearly a $2 increase. It may not seem like much at first, but when you’re feeding a family and trying to stick to a budget, it adds up. People are choosing to forego tradition altogether, opting for cheaper fish like sardines instead.
Restaurants and other establishments either source sanma fresh and in-season or freeze it for later consumption. Many supermarkets are turning to their frozen reserves as a temporary solution. But without sufficient fish to replenish those stores, many worry about how they will be able to sustain their current menu.
One shop discontinued its sanma dishes earlier this year. However, they were reportedly able to put sanma back on the menu later after a more generous haul. Some reports predict that catches may increase as the season drags on. However, none of that is guaranteed.
Why Japanese Sanma is Scarce
Experts attribute the increase in Japanese sanma prices to overfishing and climate change. Rising ocean temperatures result in changes to the fish’s regular migration patterns. This means they are no longer showing up where they once appeared in droves.
Until about 30 years ago, Japan accounted for the majority of the world’s sanma catch. However, sanma recently increased in popularly in other countries such as China and Russia. With so many people vying for a decent catch, overfishing is bound to occur unless proper conservation methods are in place.
A Call for Conservation
While there are some restrictions in place, the fact that this year’s haul fell short of that quota indicates a need for stricter measures. In an August 28 press conference, Japanese Prime Minister Yoshihide Suga called for stronger resource management and suggested tighter annual catch quotas for every country.
The North Pacific Fisheries Commission (NPFC) is an international committee that regulates fishing of Japanese sanma. Last year, they limited quotas to around 550,000 tons. This year, with catch figures around 440,000, they’ll have to cut that down even more. Unfortunately, a solution may not come through until 2021, due to a postponement of the annual meeting thanks to coronavirus.
Until then, local regions and individuals are doing whatever they can to drive awareness. On November 4th, popular Enka singer Kohei Fukuda held a PR event in Iwate Prefecture in which he personally grilled and served sanma to visitors. Though catches are scarce, one good thing he notes is that “this year’s sanma are thick and have more fat on them!” (Unlike last year’s catches, which were notably thin). The event supported several causes, including reconstruction after a recent earthquake in Iwate, supporting local artists affected by coronavirus, and sharing local sanma with the public.
