Aging Ramen Shop Owners Struggle to Pass on Their Legacies

Aging Ramen Shop Owners Struggle to Pass on Their Legacies

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Woman eating ramen
Japan's aging population has created a successor crisis that threatens to shutter half of the country's ramen shops.

In a rapidly aging society, many elderly business owners are worried about finding successors, whether family members or young entrepreneurs. This successor shortage (後継者不足; koukeisha fuzoku) has plagued many family-owned and small businesses in Japan. We’ve discussed this topic a little in our coverage of the 7-11 franchisee who was almost sued by 7-11 corporate when he tried to shorten his store’s hours.

But nowhere is the successor issue more striking than in ramen shops. The owners of reputable ramen shops are aging – and they’re not having luck finding successors to take over.

Ueda Misae (上田みさえ), proprietor of Noodle House Ueda (麺家 うえだ), is one such person. Ms. Ueda began her ramen shop proprietor career at the age of 56. At the age of 76, after suffering from age-related health issues over the last couple years, she decided to close down her shop rather than train new employees to keep it open. Fortunately, another ramen shop was eager to help preserve her signature ramen, so she spent several months training the staff and ensuring her recipe would be in good hands.

「麺家 うえだ」女性創業者が悩み抜いた引き際 | 井手隊長のラーメン見聞録

20年のラーメンづくりから「卒業」 6月30日、埼玉県新座市にある有名ラーメン店「麺家 うえだ」の女性創業者が、お店から「卒業」した。上田みさえさん(76歳)がその人だ。東武東上線志木駅から徒歩8分に立地する行列のできる人気店である。 【2019年7月17日7時45分追記】初出時、「麺家 うえだ」の所在地に誤りがありましたので表記のように修正しました。 上田さんは56歳で「麺家 …

(JP) Link: Founder of “Noodle House Ueda” Worried About How to Retire

While Ueda was able to pass on her recipe, other ramen shop owners haven’t been as lucky. According to a 2016 survey by the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare (厚生労働省; こうせいろうどうしょう; kouseiroudoushou), roughly 30.6% of shopkeepers are aged 60 — 69 years old. The next highest demographic is 50 — 59 year olds at 29.8%. Participants were also asked if they had a successor (後継者; koukeisha) in place to take over; an overwhelming 69.1% responded that they did not.

In Tokyo’s Waseda ward, ramen shops have been forced to shutter their doors in rapid succession. Some had been operating since the 60s and 70s by entrepreneurs riding the postwar economic wave. Yet new ramen shops are opening as fast as the old reputable shops are closing down. Between April 2013 and March 2018, 22 different ramen shops opened in the vicinity of Waseda Station.

Famous ramen critic Yamaji Rikiya (山路力也) extrapolated that one cause for these closures is the degradation of the “family business” concept in modern society. Another cause is the change in customer demographics — fewer students are venturing to old haunts, and they’re being replaced by salarymen and elderly customers.

早稲田で老舗ラーメン店が続々と閉店 背景に後継者問題 – ライブドアニュース

早稲田を代表する老舗ラーメン店といえば「メルシー」。閉店が相次いでいる中でも、頑張って営業を続けている(筆者撮影) …

(JP) Link: Amid a Successor Problem, Long-Established Ramen Shops in Waseda Close One After Another

Efforts have begun to help these businesses struggling to find successors. The Business Transfer Support Center (事業引継ぎ支援センター; Jigyō Hikitsugi Shien Sentā) offers free consultations for businesses without successors, as well as paid services to help connected business owners with eager entrepreneurs. Others are relying on third parties to take over the businesses in cases where family members or employees aren’t willing or able to take over.

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Despite these multiple avenues of assistance, Ueda Misae is, so far, one of the few success stories.

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Alyssa Pearl Fusek

Alyssa Pearl Fusek is a freelance writer currently haunting the Pacific Northwest. She holds a B.A. in Japanese Studies from Willamette University. When she's not writing for Unseen Japan, she's either reading about Japan, writing poetry and fiction, or drinking copious amounts of jasmine green tea. Find her on Bluesky at @apearlwrites.

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