Unseen Japan

The Japan You Don't Learn About in Anime.

Do you think you hate Japan's famous beverage made from fermented rice? There's likely a simple reason for that. Pictured: A tasting set (飲み比べセット) of three different sake from three different regions of Japan. Taken at Dokan (度感), a smoked foods specialty restaurant near Meguro Station, Meguro, Tokyo.

Here's Why You (Think You) Hate Japanese Sake (日本酒)

Posted on October 16, 2018 in alcohol, drinking, food, cultureJay Andrew Allen

Recently, someone posted a short missive to a Japanese Sake group on Facebook that I've heard countless times:

So I just tried Sake for the first time and it was Gekkeikan brand and was labeled as "World Finest Sake". I have also recently watched a documentary on Sake and have been an avid fan of Japanese culture for over 20 years now.

Sake has been talked up as being smooth (which I find that it actually is) and very aromatic and flavorful. However, my experience thus far has lacked flavor (tastes more like a smooth and less alcoholic vodka) and has lacked any aroma at all (just smells like alcohol). Why is that?"

I had a similar experience when coming back from Tokyo in July. I was leaving through Haneda and saw, to my shock and delight, that a gift shop had beautifully boxed bottles of Dassai 23, one of Japan's renowned high-end sakes. It was only $50 for the bottle (and duty free!), which is a deal for Dassai 23, so I snapped it up.

I messaged my friends that I'd be bringing a delicious sake for us to try. But my friend Reagan was skeptical. "I've had sake before," she said, "and I didn't much care for it."

"Trust me," I told her. "This will change your mind." And it did. After just a single sip, she was sold on the beauty of sake.

What happened? Simple: in both cases, these people were introduced to sake through the worst possible examples of the brand. Handing someone US-bought Gekkeikan as their first sake is like going on to someone for hours about the wonder and beauty of beer, then handing them a Pabst Blue Ribbon.

Fortunately, understanding a few basic facts about sake can mean the difference between having a terrible experience and being hooked for life.

What The Heck is Sake, Anyway?

This information is covered better on other sites, but I'd be remiss if I didn't give a brief review of what sake is, and exactly how diverse a beverage it can be. Understanding some key elements of sake is important to figuring out which one will best appeal to your palette. (Note: My reference for many of the points below is the book Fundamental Knowledge of Nihonshu.)

First, the English word "sake" is a bit of a misnomer. "Sake" (酒) is the umbrella Japanese word for alcoholic drinks as such. What we call "sake" is referred to in Japan as nihonshu (日本酒), or "Japanese sake". It is a drink with a long history - the earliest known citation of rice-based alcohol in Japan goes back to 500 AD. As with many traditional japanese arts, the making of a specific brand of sake is something that is often passed down through generations: the oldest sake brewer in Japan, Sudouhon, has been in operation since 1186 (!).

At its most basic, sake is made with water, rice, and rice mold. The quality of the water and the rice are critical in the sake making process. The water used for sake is usually drawn from the brewer's local water supply, and its qualities - the purity, mineral content, etc. - play a huge role in the taste of the final product. The rice used for sake is not normal table rice, but rather rice grown specifically for sake brewing. The rice should be starchy so that it can be ingested by the yeast. Additionally, since sake rice is ground down to remove some of the starchy outer husk before brewing, brewers need rice with large kernels that won't break during this milling process. The so-called "king of sake rice" is a strain from Hogo Prefecture called Yamada Nishiki, and is used in many of Japan's higher-end sakes.

Yamada Nishiki rice
Yamada Nishiki rice, the premium sake rice of Japan. (Picture: タカサン / PIXTA(ピクスタ))

The Different Categories of Sake

Sake is an incredibly diverse drink, and comes in different varieties depending on how it was made. Understanding these differences is critical to picking sake that matches your taste buds and personality.

At the most basic level is "ordinary sake" (普通; futsuu). Ordinary sake has typically had elements added to it, such as amino acids or additional alcohol, equal to 11% or more of the total volume of the bottled product.

If additives are less then 10% of the total bottled product, then things get complicated: the sake enters the realm of "Specially Branded Sake" (特定名称; tokuteimeishou) - special names for different varieties of refined sake. Japanese law regulates the usage of these names. Most products in this category require using a specific level of polished rice; i.e., the rice used for the sake must be milled down to a certain ratio of husk to kernel. This is called the polish ratio (精米歩合; seimai buai). A higher polish ratio results in a fruitier, more aromatic sake with more complexity.

There are eight total special sake names, divided into three general categories:

  • Ginjoushukei (吟醸酒系). Has added alcohol, and a high level of polished rice. Ginjoushu (吟醸酒) has a polish ratio of 60% or less (i.e., less than 60% of the husk remains on the rice), and Daiginjoushu (大吟醸酒) has a ration 50% or less.
  • Junmaishukei (純米酒系). Has no added alcohol - i.e., this is "pure" sake. A regular Junmai doesn't need a specific polishing level. There are also Junmai Ginjou (純米吟醸) and Junmai Daiginzou (純米大吟醸), which are basically "pure" variants of Ginjou and Daiginjou. Another variety of Junmai is the "special Junmai" (特別純米); this sake doesn't need a particular polish ratio, but must use a "special" brewing process.
  • Honjouzoushukei 本醸造酒系). Sake with added alcohol. Regular Honjou needs to use rice with a 70% or less polish ratio, while special Honjou (特別本嬢) can waive the polish requirement.
Back of a sake label
The back of the label for Kuro-obi Yuu Yuu (黒帯悠々), a special Junmai sake. The labels of the specially branded sakes are regulated by law, and must contain certain information, such as the alcohol content and polish ratio used in the creation of the drink.

There is even more variation than this. Some breweries have their own particular methods they used throughout the brewing process. Additionally, different fermentation methods - whether one uses a starter mash or not - create different taste profiles. But for the beginner, the above is more than enough complexity.

How to Ignore the PBRs of the Sake World

So, you get it now. Sake is deep, man. So how's a poor beginner to get started? Here are a few rules of thumb to follow.

For starters, stick with Junmai Ginjou or Junmai Daiginjou. Pure-rice sake with no additives and a high polish ratio on the rice tends to be a very smooth, easily drinkable product with a lot of taste complexity and an incredibly fragrant scent. Once you get your feet wet with these types, you can extend your palette to other types of sake. (Or you can just keep drinking Junmai - there's nothing wrong with that!)

Drink it cold. Kan (燗), or heated sake, is a venerable tradition. However, it's best done with particular types of sake, such as Honjou or regular sake, as the addition of additives will bring more complexity to the taste when it's heated. Junmai should be chilled in the fridge and imbibed cold. It should stay in the fridge for no more than a few days; after about the third day, sake, like a good wine, will begin to lose its fresh, original taste.

Expect to pay a little. It's possible - but hard - to get a really good Junmai for under USD $20 in the states. Importing of sake doubles the costs of most bottles, meaning a product that would only run you USD $15 in Japan (¥1500) will cost about $30. A bottle of good quality will run $20-40 in the US, and some higher end sakes sell for anywhere from $50 to $100 a bottle - or more!

Buy imported sake at an Asian grocery store or online. Most of what you can get in a regular grocery store is US-produced. That's not always a bad thing: some manufacturers, such as Portland's Momokawa, put out a decent product. But I think it's best to first experience traditionally produced sake from a manufacturer with a solid reputation in Japan.

You can usually ask someone on staff at an Asian grocery what they'd recommend. I can personally suggest any of the following brands:

  • Hakutsuru. One of the more available brands in the US, and with at least one bottle of Junmai Ginjou that you can get for under $20.
  • Kubota. Very plentiful abroad, and with a wide range that goes from the affordable to the truly ostentatious.
  • Dewazakura. One of my favorite "for every occasion" sakes. Their Ouka and Dewasansan brands will run you a little bit of money ($30-40 a pop), but are worth the additional expense.
  • Kaiun. Great quality at around a $30 price point for their Junmai Ginjou.
  • Dassai. Dassai is famous in Japan as being one of the brands that kickstarted the "craft sake" movement, and helped save the industry from going out of business as young people turned toward beer. It sells three varieties: the 50, 39 and 23, all named for the polish ratio. The entire line is made with Yamada Nishiki rice, a.k.a. the "king of sake rice". The 50 is the least expensive - which means, it'll run you about USD $50 for a 750ml bottle. A bottle of 23 in the US will run you a good $100. If you can afford it, however, I highly recommend drinking at least Dassai 50 as your first sake; it will serve as a standard against which you judge everything else you taste.

You can read more about Dassai's fascinating journey at Nippon.com:

Dassai: How a Rural Sake Brewery Took On the World
Thirty minutes by car from Iwakuni, deep in the mountains of Yamaguchi Prefecture, is the home of Dassai, a top-quality sake that has been highly acclaimed both at home and abroad. We take a look at how this small brewery rose from unpromising beginnings to become a major player on the international market.

You can check out other famous Japanese brands at Tom Inoue's Experience Sake Web site - he has a very well curated list of choices. (Though he and I will need to disagree about Aramasa, which has never been to my liking.)

The Top 8 Sake Brands Every Beginner Should Know
Wish someone can just tell you which sake brands to try? This article introduces you to the 8 most popular brands of sake in Japan that you should know.

"It Tasted Like Semen"

One more note about sake varieties. I had another friend who, when I started going on about sake, pursed her lips into a churlish grimace and said, "I can't stand sake. I had it one, and it looked and tasted like semen."

It took me a while to figure out that she was referring to a specific type of sake called nigori-zake (にごり酒). Nigori is produced in such a way that some of the sake curds from the distilling process are left behind in the drink. This results in a cloudy texture, and a thicker sake with more body. It's a favorite of mine, and one I drink whenever I'm in the mood. However, some people may not care for it due to the thicker texture and sweeter taste. Just be aware that this is yet another option on the market: even if you don't like nigori, you are still likely to appreciate a nice, clean and crisp Junmai Daiginjou.

Nigori sake from Canada
A nigori sake (にごり酒) I bought from a talented British Columbia producer, Osake.

Can I Take It Home From Japan?

By far, the most economical way to get your hands on bottles of sake is to buy it while you're in Japan, and take it home with you. If you're in Japan anyhow, you'll be able to obtain your favorite bottles for at least half of the cost.

While carrying glass bottles in your luggage is not necessarily encouraged by the airlines, I've done it multiple times with no issue. However, some afficianados will tell you that exposure to heat and the jostling a bottle may receive in cargo will diminish the taste; they recommend always transporting it by hand, and even asking the cabin attendants to refrigerate for you. I leave it as an exercise to the reader to experiment, and judge for themselves.

Additionally, if you bought sake at the airport's duty free shop, and you need to clear security again in American in order to transfer flights, do not, by ANY means, attempt to take a bottle through US security. Most bottles of sake aren't secured according to the US's strict standards for liquids, and you'll be forced to throw it out. (Not that I, errr, learned that the hard way or anything...)

Conclusion

Before I began learning about sake, I had no idea that it was such a broad label encompassing such a large range of experimentation. While this diversity can be intimidating at first, it also means that there's a sake to suit just about any taste. After starting out with some Junmai Ginjou, try and experiment with different sakes and see what one agrees best with your palette.

I'm the publisher of Unseen Japan. I hold an N1 Certification in the Japanese Language Proficiency Test, and am married to a wonderful woman from Tokyo.